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White Nights in the Baltic |
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Year 2008 Galatea’s Summer Cruise 2007 By Douglas Addison
Last summer I sailed around the Northern Baltic with many islands to visit, old Hanseatic ports and fascinating architecture. For part of the passage I followed the route Arthur Ransom took in Racundra in 1930 on his maiden voyage. On the 30th May Galatea of London, my new Nauticat 351 was launched in Turku, Finland. Turku is the former capital of Finland, built on the banks of the River Aura. Elegant buildings and lime trees line the banks. I moored bows to and between poles just along from the Soumeu Jooutsen, a three masted frigate.
Here I am on board with my 8 year old grandson just after the launching last May. I set off on the 8th June and sailed out of the Aura past the old castle which was built in 1280 and, threaded my way through the maze of islands forming the archipelago. Detailed charts were essential in addition to electronic ones. There are many shallows and rocks to catch the unwary and no rising tides to float you off. |
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| After navigating with care to avoid these shallows and rocks, I moored up at Stormelo. It was my first experience of picking up a mooring astern and then nosing into the pontoon. The bow thruster proved its worth in the final manoeuvre. Stormelo is a delightful and typical place with a few wooden holiday houses, no shop but showers and sauna. | ||
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N60º15' E22º06' N59º49' E22º58'
I then sailed on to Hanko with its elaborate wooden villas and distinctive Lutheran Church. Then after a very scenic passage through many islands and up a long estuary, I reached Tammissari. It is a very attractive old town of pastel painted wooden houses dating from the 18th century. The Lutheran Church stood out above the single storey dwellings. It was an elegant building and all pristine and white inside giving off an aura of simplicity and peace. |
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N60º13' E22º58' N59º27' E 24º45'
The passage to Helsinki was very lively with very strong gusts. Once we were out of the island and in the main ferry channel, the navigation marks were large and clear. After a 12 hour passage we entered the harbour and moored up at the NJK Yacht Club, which is on an island on an island in the harbour. The boatman took one ashore and a semaphore arm was used to attract his attention for the return journey. Czar Alexander 2nd was present when the club rules and burgee design were agreed in the early 19th century. The skyline is dominated by the Lutheran and Orthodox Cathedrals, the former with a simple white interior and the latter heavily decorated and full of precious icons. The Church in the rock impressed me most. The memorial to Sibelius is a great piece of sculpture based on organ pipes and his bust watches over you. Alvar Alto’s house and studio were also fascinating. On leaving Helsinki, we had to sail to the island of Saorentina to check out with the border guards, before heading across to Estonia. The crossing was rough with near gale force winds but we made excellent progress to reach Tallin. The large marina was built by the Russians for the Olympics. The Old walled city of Tallin with its red roofs and spires is very picturesque.
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It is an old Hanseatic port and the Oldest Capital in Northern Europe. Since the 13th century Estonia has been invaded by the Germans, Danes, Swedes, Poles and Russians. Their language, music and traditions have survived. The town has 26 defence towers and a 600 year old Gothic town hall. Still following in Arthur Ransom’s footsteps, Galatea sailed along the coast towards the Gulf of Riga enduring strong winds and a thunderstorm during which I appreciated my new alternative inside steering position. before mooring up at Haapsalu at 22.20 after a 13 hour passage. It was shallow but I found a space at 2.5 metres deep. I had bye-passed the border control so had to apologise in the morning. This is a delightful little town of pastel coloured wooden houses and an impressive Episcopal castle. It was a favourite spa for the czars and Tchaikovsky. Galatea sailed through Moon Sound, with its shallows and rocks and continued through the night down to Riga. The sun set at 11.30pm and the sky stayed red until it popped up again just after at 3am. It was a magical night to be out at sea. After a 25 hour passage we entered the Duagava River and proceeded the 8 miles up to Riga. We passed ships loading coal and timber, two major exports, before approaching the impressive suspension bridge and entering the Adrejosta yacht harbour at 18.45.
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N57º30' E22º50' Riga is also an old Hanseatic port, which developed into a beautifully laid out city in the 18 and19th centuries. There is an incredible street of Art Nouveau mansions and a well maintained park and canal running through the centre. The gunpowder tower is the oldest building with 6 foot walls to withstand cannon balls.
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N57º30' E22º40' N58º20' E22º32'
I sailed up the Latvian coast to Roja, a small fishing port with a beautiful 13 mile beach bordering trees and a nature reserve. It was the fishermen’s annual festival of the sea with father Neptune and his sea nymphs appearing out of the sea. There was a vintage motorcycle rally for sailors who got board with the pretty dancing girls. From
Roja Galatea sailed across to the Estonian Island of Saaremaa and into the marina at Roomassaare. The approach was shallow with many rocks and I didn’t have a detailed chart. The harbour master, who spoke perfect English took my lines and as usually happened, made one very welcome. It is a new marina with excellent facilities in well designed blue and white painted wooden buildings.
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N58º16' E22º31' Kuressaare, the capital, is a short bus ride away. An attractive town of mainly wooden houses and a medieval stone built hostelry providing sustenance. It has a 13th century Episcopal castle where that evening, there was a classical piano recital in the former Bishop’s parlour. Using a hire car from the marina we explored the island and discovered old wooden post windmills at Angla and a 13th century church at Karja with original frescoes and amazing carvings..
From Saarema Galatea sailed towards Ventspils in Latvia but, with near gale force winds and a rough sea, I decided to stay at sea and crossed overnight to Farosund on the Swedish Island of Gotland. The sound between Gotland and Faro provided a sheltered base. A free ferry connects with Faro, mainly a nature reserve with miles of unspoilt coastline. Visby, a bus ride away, is the capital. It is a delightful old port surrounded by a wall with many towers. Hired a bicycle to visit the Bunge Museum, a heritage centre which is full of relocated thatched wooden buildings, all furnished authentically. The variety of wind and water mills was amazing.
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Had a good 14 hour passage in NW 3-4 across to the Swedish mainland, passed through islands and moored up at Nynashamn. Once more the landmark was a Lutheran Church on top of a rock above the waterfront. There is an excellent train service to here from Stockholm, so it was a good place for friends to join me. From Nynashamn Galatea sailed out to sea and around the headland off the island of Oja. The seas were choppy but once amongst the islands the wind was gusting strongly but the fetch was short, so a good sail stopping overnight at Verkan on the way to Oxelsund. A seal welcomed us into the marina which was a short walk away from the town centre. On Sunday afternoon a talented group played for a sing song in the beautifully landscaped town centre. A local said we must visit Trosa. The chart showed many islands and very shallow areas. We had a nice breeze and carefully made our way up the estuary and eventually moored up in 1.8 metres in the deepest part of the marina. Trosa is probably the prettiest village in Sweden with its pastel painted individual wooden houses lining either side of a tiny river. Small boats lined the banks and a couple of wooden bridges crossed the river. A perfect setting in the bright sunshine for afternoon tea. Trosa dates from 1383, present town from 1610.
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N58º53' E17º34' N58º53' E18º08' Then careful navigation and some fine sailing in bright sunshine took Galatea through the islands to Nattaro which is off Nynashamn. This island is a nature reserve and once you have negotiated the narrow rocky entrance , there is perfect shelter inside and it was an idyllic place to drop anchor.Then in perfect weather, sunshine and a strong breeze, I sailed up to Delaro and then on to Soltsjobaden. The shorter route to Stockholm from here is through a beautiful gorge and the suddenly you are out in the open with cruise ships and large ferries heading into the harbour gorge. I moored at the Vasa Hamnen just by the Vasa Museum. One can walk into the centre of Stockholm from here by going over the over the bridge or take a ferry. Stockholm is a beautiful city, built on islands with yachts, ferries and many historic vessels afloat alongside the many quays. The Vasa Museum is quite amazing.
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N59º20' E18º20' It is built around the Vasa with the masts sticking out of the roof. The Vasa, like the Mary rose, heeled over and sank in full view of everybody in 1628. This warship was newly launched, heavily carved and decorated and, with probably far too many cannon for its ballast. It was raised from the mud in incredible condition in 1961. |
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N60º05' E20º00' Turku 60º24' E22º20'
From Stockholm I solo sailed up through the Archipelago in strong winds. I found sheltered anchorages behind Grinda and in a delightful and sheltered bay at Lindon Osterhamn. Out in the open sea at last I could relax and enjoy a good sail in a NE 4 across the sea to the Aland Islands and then I had to concentrate in the channels up to Mariehamn, the capital. I moored up near the Pommern, a four masted clipper that was built in Glasgow. It is still in its original condition and has no engine. It used to race the Cutty Sark from Australia.
I also had gales and strong winds sailing through the Turku archipelago to Turku in Finland stopping at Sottunga to ride out a gale and Verkan where I hit a rock. No damage though as verified later. I had a good meal there in a characterful blue painted wooden restaurant and, free internet. It was very quiet though because it was now the 11th of September and well passed the date when the locals enjoy cruising. One more passage and I was back in Turku. Galatea is comfortable and wintering in a shed kept at a minimum of 15 degrees.
It was a fascinating voyage of 1,500 nautical miles. I visited five countries with five different languages and five different currencies and, had some testing weather and navigational hazards which provided a test for me and the boat.
I do miss the ketch rig on my old Galatea in rough weather, when I could balance the mizzen and head sail, but my new Nauticat proved a good solid sea boat with her longish heavy lead keel. She is built to a very high standard, well equipped for a single handed sailor and has very comfortable accommodation.
Next summer my plan is to sail from Finland down to the Southern Baltic and explore Lithuania, Poland, Germany and Denmark.
Douglas Addison 28.3.08
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