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From: Denise&Ian Caprice
Sent: 13 August 2009 17:11
To: Website
Subject: Safely back home!
Just a quickie to those of you we haven't yet seen or spoken to ...
We arrived in Falmouth on Tuesday afternoon, after 12.5 days at sea and
1291 miles, sailing and drifting. We had 4 days in total almost becalmed
- would have done it in 10 days otherwise.
No big problems on this trip and glad to be back in familiar
surroundings. We are anchored here in Falmouth until Saturday when we'll
make our way back to Torpoint. Tony & Sue Symes and Jeff Curran are here
on their boats, so party time. We were met in by Ian's brother Keith on
the Tuesday which was lovely.
The boat is booked to be lifted out of the water next Tuesday so we can
deal with the hull work, hopefully on 2 weeks as we then hope to go to the
Isles of Scilly for the rest of September, before returning to our winter
berth in Torpoint marina.
See or talk soon
Denise & Ian
From: Denise&Ian Caprice
Sent: 29 July 2009 16:39
To: Alan Bradfield
Subject: Our Azores experience/returning to UK
Hi to everyone
We are leaving tomorrow (Thur 30th) for our return trip to the UK so I
thought I'd send out an update detailing our month here in the Azores. We
have a 1200 mile passage from our present location (Angra on Terceira) to
Falmouth (our intended arrival point, but who knows - depends where the
winds take us, so could be anywhere from southern Ireland to northern
Brittany coasts!). We can only get weather info for about 6 days ahead -
looking ok (SW - N winds) but who knows what will come after that (we see
that next week the Irish coast is expecting wave heights of 6-8 metres -
gulp!). We expect to take anywhere between 10-18 days.
Hopefully our gas supply will last for cooking - we've been unable to get
camping gaz on this island and only have one full cylinder, so will be
relying on solar power to heat water for showers/washing up. Talking of
food - provisioning for the trip has been a headache. It's impossible to
buy tinned meats of any kind, except frankfurter sausages! So we have lots
of them, plus tinned tuna & sardines - I shall have to be creative with
pasta and rice and conjure up different ways to serve them. We have a huge
local cheese, which is very similar to strong cheddar and should keep ok.
About the Azores - we cannot find anything negative to say - they are
wonderful and well worth the effort to get here (and the expense - our
damaged headsail couldn't be repaired and we had to buy a 2nd-hand one
which was then adapted to fit our boat, at a cost of 1000euros + 90 euros
for minor repairs to the mainsail). We've visited 5 of the 9 islands.
Flores & Corvo we never intended to go to as they are 150 miles further
westward and we've missed out Santa Maria & Graciosa due to time. The
weather has not been as normal for this time of year - the Azores "high"
not fully materialising. Thus more rain than usual, but temperatures great
for me - no more than 23 degrees. High humidity but not uncomfortably so.
People everywhere have been very friendly and most have spoke good
English.
Sao Miguel island - Ponta Delgada
This was our first port. We stayed 9 days in the new marina - to recover
from the outward trip, organise the repairs + sightseeing. This is the
largest of the Azorean islands. We hired a car for 2 days. The scenery is
stunning. Huge hydrangea bushes grow wild everywhere (as on all the
islands) and its like driving through a country garden. There are
beautiful scenic lakes created from craters left by the volcanic eruptions
and everywhere is so lush. Caldeiras are everywhere - hot bubbling
volcanic springs and Azoreans take their huge cooking pots out to them for
free cooking. The Portugese have provided facilities all over - picnic
areas, with BBQs, open-air swimming pools with hot showers - all free! We
visited Europe's only tea plantation. One evening we had a free open-air
concert beside the marina - Roger ?, former lead singer/songwriter with
Supertramp (he was great, I didn't know I knew so many of their songs). PD
itself has an old part of the town but unfortunately is also trying to be
just like everywhere else with the new buildings and same old designer
shops around the marina complex - no character.
Sao Jorge island - Velas
This was a 150 mile to get to the central islands group. We twice had
groups of at least 50 bottle-nosed dolphins playing around the boat on
passage (I've read some here can get up to 1000 strong). Into the very
small, new marina under the cliffs at Velas (90% of the marinas in the
Azores are run by the local Junta and have the same rates - for us 12euros
a night incl water & electricity). There are very few safe anchorages as
bays are rocky volcanic ground, deep water and subject to the ever present
Atlantic swell. We stayed 3 nights. Had one very long, uphill walk to the
best viewpoint on the island - looking across to Pico island and down the
Sao Jorge channel. Stopped on the way back down in a small local
backstreet bar for a beer. Despite only spending 1.80 e the owner bought
us 2 free beers - can you imagine that happening in the UK for 2
strangers! Again a very green island, with cliff-top pastures and sheer
cliffs.
Faial island - Horta
A 30m crossing to the main and most famous port in the Azores. This is
where boats making the Atlantic crossing from America all stop at as an
almost halfway point. Subsequently the marina is full of boats from all
over. It was full when we arrived (lots of French racing yachts in) so we
anchored in the harbour, where we stayed for our whole visit (7 nights)
for a charge of 5e a night. We hired a motor scooter here as much cheaper
than a car and it took Ian back to his youth (although betraying his
"rocker" origins as he had a motor bike & wouldn't have been seen dead on
a scooter!). We visited the black, barren landscape of Capelinhos -
created in 1957/8 when a volcanic eruption extended the island and caused
hundreds of islanders to emigrate to the USA. Horta marina is very
colourful as the walls and pavements are covered in pictures of visiting
boats. It's tradition not to go without leaving your mark, so we, to be
different, engraved a small brass plaque we had on board, with "Caprice,
Ian and Denise, TMSC, July 2009" and epoxied it to a prominent position by
some steps - should be there in hundreds of years to come, unlike the pics
which will fade!
Pico island
From Horta we took the ferry across to Madelena as there is only one very
small marina on Pico and we could not guarantee getting in (turns out we
could a few days later). Again we hired a motor scooter to tour around.
This had to work very hard, what with me & Ian on it (no lightweights) and
climbing very steep mountain passes - with no crash barriers! Pico is the
2nd largest island & contains Portugal's highest peak. It rises into a
cone that dominates the central group of islands. Pico was the centre of
the 19th/early 20th century whaling industry, with islanders recruited by
American whaling ships and there are 2museums. The sperm whale can often
be spotted from the clifftops (although not by us) and there are numerous
organised whale-watching trips. Houses are built of black lava and a very
distinctive wine is grown here. As mentioned before, we did manage to get
a place in the marina at Lajes do Pico (only has room for 5 visitors), so
were able to see a bit more of the island by bus.
Terceira - Angra de Heroisma
For once we had a great sail over (56 miles "reach"). The 3rd largest
island. Our final island stop and our favourite town. We anchored for the
first 2 nights off the marina (free) but went in when it got too swelly.
AdH is a UNESCO World heritage site, built in the 16th century. It has
some wonderful characterful old buildings and churches, painted in bright
pastel shades and narrow cobbled streets - we love it here! A Dutch sailor
stopped here on passage and stayed 3 years! Sadly there was a big
earthquake here in 1980 and much was destroyed but has been
sympathetically restored. There is an American influence as the US army
took over the old RAF base that was built during WW2. The locals speak
English with a strong American accent. We hired a car this time for a day
(I'd had enough of bouncing around on the back of a scooter). Had a lovely
sunny day touring the island. I went down inside the only empty volcano in
the world - amazing. Again, the scenery is just so pretty and
breathtaking.
For those interested, we have plenty of photos to bore you with on our
return!
Time to prep the boat for sea again. Happy holidays to those still to get
away (hope the weather improves for you - we hear its been abysmal). Hope
to see you all soon. Will email/text when we are within range of land
again (07721527332 o& 07924427892 our UK mbl nos).
Denise & Ian xx
S/Y Caprice
Terceira, Azores 29th July 2009
From: Denise&Ian Caprice
Sent: 02 July 2009 17:13
To: website@tmsc.org.uk
Subject:
We got here!
Hi all
Well we made it to the first of our Azorean islands - arrived at Ponta
Delgada on Sao Miguel 2 nights ago, after 12 days at sea and 1040 miles
travelled - and just in time too, as down to our last toilet roll!
As usual with us nothing went easy. We ended up having to do a 1000 mile
tack (for non-sailors a ziz-zag route) across the Atlantic ocean. The
wind was Westerly almost all the way - 2 days we had no wind at all and
were bobbing around not going anywhere. and then 2 SW gales and 4 metre
high seas - hence the time it took us to get here. We arrived with about
20 litres of fuel in reserve!
Unfortunately we had our main headsail shred badly, although we carry a
spare it was impossible in the high sea for Ian to go up front to change
it, so we had a day just under main & mizzen. Then the main also
developed a rip, so we could only use it well reefed down (sorry for the
techie language). We had to use our storm sail when winds got to nearly 40
knots.
So finally got in to PD at 7pm and have been busy seeing about getting a
replacement headsail (2nd hand, as old one is not worth the cost of
repairing - 1000 euros for this one) and doing laundry, cleaning boat
etc. We are staying here until next Tues and will hire a car for 2 days
to see more of the island (this is the largest of the 9 islands). Our
impressions so far are excellent - it is very green and hilly and the old
town here is similar to Funchal. In the new marina which is only 12 euros
all in a night.
The group Supertramp are giving a free open-air concert here tomorrow
night and we have a grandstand view from the cockpit of the stage.
Next week we'll set sail for Faial - Horta, the main yachting island and
centre - its is 150 miles further on, amongst the central group of 5
islands. Also that is the whale capital of Europe we are assured, as none
spotted yet.
Apart from the frustrations of the crossing, I loved being at sea for that
time and the feeling of our own small world all contained in the boat.
She performed magnificently and kept us safe, even with the big swell. It
was tiring - Ian in particular feeling lots of aches in places he didn't
know he had - changing sails on the foredeck with the boat tipped over &
waves coming over is not easy and he is getting on a bit!! Also the diet
got a bit boring once the fresh food run out, but no problems with water
capacity & managed 9 showers between us, still not empty yet.
We have found that our usual global sim does work after all in the
Azores - so can be conacted by text of phone on that as usual should you
wish. Also we have free WIFI just acorss the road from the marina, so can
pick up emails - so please keep in touch.
Will send an update before we leave the Azores in early Aug for the return
trip to UK. Take care all.
Denise & Ian x
S/Y Caprice
From: Denise&Ian Caprice
Sent: 19 May 2009 15:09
To: website@tmsc.org.uk
Subject: Caprice update
Hi
We are currently berthed in the state marina at
Mazagion in Spain, which is approx 30 miles from the Spanish/Portugese
border. Up until 3 days ago things were going swimmingly and we were
having a great time making our way slowly along the Atlantic Spanish
coastline. Then the alternator packed up whilst on passage and we are
having a terrible time trying to get anything done about it here. Without
it we cannot charge the boat batteries, which makes anchoring impossible,
thus having to spend time in a marina plugged into the shore electricity
power. This being Spain, everything is
"tomorrow" ! We can get it
repaired but they are saying it will take 2 weeks at least. Of course it
doesn't help that no one here speaks English and we don't speak Spanish
(which I appreciate is our fault, as why should they speak our language)
so communication is a problem!
We've been trying to find another way round it and are currently waiting
for a mechanic to give us a verdict on if & when he can repair it. We've
also been in touch with Frank (a TMSC member who is in the Algarve) & he's
trying to source someone there for us who can offer a quicker resolution.
Meanwhile there is little to do here. The sun is shining and weather
getting hotter, but a very long walk uphill to the supermarkets and no
other visitors here to chat with.
Other than this prob we've had a good time. Stayed in Gibraltar a few
days - did a tour of the Rock and generally ambled around. The crossing
over from Morocco was a challenge - 40 knot winds and a big sea (all not
forecast) but made for a quick passage doing 8 knots!
Spent 3 days in Cadiz which we loved. This is the oldest city in Europe -
3000 years of continuous habitation. The old centre is very compact and
walkable, with lovley old buildings and squares and narrow streets.
Recommended for a weekend visit!
We then decided to anchor up a river at Sancti Petri. Challenging enough
is there are sandbanks either side and a narrowish channel for our boat,
but again just as we got in the entrance the winds started gusting to 45
knots. I was trying to control the boat whilst Ian lay the anchor, but
with the strong current too, it proved impossible and we were drifting to
the sides. We had no choice other than to pick up a local mooring buoy -
first time thankfully and luckily it was a good strong mooring. We stayed
2 nights, without being bothered by anyone and it proved worth the stay,
as a lovely place (a nature reserve either side of us).
The PC battery is running low now (on WIFI at local cafe) so will have to
sign this off. Hope all is well with everybody. Send us your news/gossip
when you can. We still plan to come home via the Azores, planning to
leave the Algarve approx mid-June (subject to alternator!).
Take care all
Denise & Ian xx
From: Denise&Ian Caprice
Sent: 16 February 2009 11:19
To: Alan Bradfield;website@tmsc.org.uk
Subject: Caprice on the move again!
Hi everyone
We are getting itchy feet and are bored sat here in Almerimar marina
(Spain) so have decided to move on now to Morocco. We've been waiting for
favourable winds (and also a bit of kit to arrive for the boat) and are
now off Tuesday morning (17th). Instead of following the spanish coast we
are going to go straight across from here in one passage - 136 miles, to
Marina Smir near Tetouen. Please note - our international sim phone
number does not give us free incoming calls whilst in Morocco - so please,
no calling for a chat - text or email only! Not sure how long we'll stay
but our next port after that will be Gibraltar & then along the Algarve
coast. As most of you know, we are bringing Caprice home later this year
(after 2.5 yrs away) and are contemplating in May making the passage back
via the Azores in the Atlantic (more favourable wind/tide direction and
also for the challenge!).
Since I got back from UK (2 weeks after Ian as I had flu then bronchitis)
we've been doing "spring cleaning" inside the boat and Ian has been
practising his varnishing techniques on our internal woodwork! Except for
a few windy/wet days, we've had lovely weather - sorry about that as I
know it has been s---t in the UK!
As I write. we still do not have a tenant for Ian's flat, but I would
think the awful weather hasn't helped, so fingers crossed that things
change soon. Well we have no other news for now. Look forward to hearing
back via email anything you've been up to etc.
Denise & Ian
S/V Caprice, 16th February 2009
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