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TORPOINT MOSQUITO SAILING CLUB

 

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Caprice at Sea 2011

 


From: Denise Phillips [mailto:capriceatsea@hotmail.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 4:34 PM
To:  website@tmsc.org.uk
Subject: Report on our trip


Hi All

I'm sending this just west of Amsterdam, where we're moored at a small yacht club,  hoping to leave early tomorrow (Thur) through the sea lock at Ijmuiden. Yet again we have had to sit out severe gales. It was gusting to over 55 knots on Monday, but we were well tied up! We've completed our circuit of the Markermeer/Ijsselmeer (inland freshwater “seas” in the north of The Netherlands) and are waiting for favourable winds in order to go down the Dutch North Sea coast and then down to Belgium and France. We've decided not to retrace our steps back through the inland waterways, for 2 reasons: a) we've never come back the same route we left on any of our trips and b) we didn't particularly enjoy motoring along the canals, negotiating opening bridges and locks and can't wait to get back to sea sailing again.

There are aspects we've really liked about this trip -

The towns and villages en route have been mostly enchanting, with character, lovely architecture (the Dutch really take care of their homes and are great gardeners), and pretty canals and bridges. Leiden was a great favourite – an ancient university town, with a lot of history. We moored in Haarlem for nearly 3 weeks (it was very cheap and were waiting for favourable winds to head further north). Much preferable to Amsterdam I think, which I find crowded, noisy and frankly scruffy in places.

The Dutch are friendly and open and we've been met with warm welcomes almost everywhere (except by the rude Havenmaster in Urk)!

Being a nation of boaters, the facilities for “sailors” everywhere are great and more importantly, good value. Even the plushest marinas are no more than €23 a night for us and on average we usually pay about €11. Anchoring in the Ijsselmeer is free everywhere, even within harbour boundaries and that's what we've been doing for the past 6 weeks.

What we haven't taken to are -



All the motoring along the Standing Mast route to get to the Ijsselmeer. Waiting around for bridges to open.

The midges in the Markermeer in particular (we woke up one morning with the boat covered in them – I had to send Ian out to deal with!). The spiders that feed on the midges, but weave their webs all over the outside and drop their “poo” all over the boat!

The weather – we seem to have had non-stop torrential downpours continuously throughout July, August and now September.

Anyhow, the Markermeer/Ijsselmeer was worth coming up this far for. We've been able to hoist the sails again, although it is disconcerting sailing along with mostly only a metre or less of water under us. The “sea” gets very short and choppy when the winds are F5+, which makes for an uncomfortable sail.

As I've said, you can anchor almost anywhere, at times we've only had 2 cm under the keel!



We've only seen 2 other British registered boats in the past few weeks – there are as many German as Dutch boats and unfortunately a lot seem to be “weekend” sailors (same as weekend drivers!), with very poor boat-handling skills. We enjoyed our reunions in Kaag and Haarlem with Torpoint club boats “Samphire of Rame” and “Lydia” respectively (see pics).



The towns and villages are all ex North Sea fishing ports and were strongholds of the former Dutch East Indies Company. The Fishing industry has largely died off since the damming of the old Zuiderzee in 1932, making the area all freshwater.



Favourite stops – Hoorn and Enkhauzen on the West side and Hinderloopen (see pic - where we were for Ian's birthday and I hired a bike again and this time managed to stay upright) on the East coast. Enkhauzen has a fabulous open-air museum, the Zuiderzee. This displayed complete villages that had been uprooted and relocated to the site, with demonstrations of ancient crafts, and was a worthwhile, albeit expensive 6 hour visit.

 



There are hundreds of restored (and some new) Dutch sailing barges and tall ships, that ply these waters and they are a lovely site when under sail (see pic).

We had intended to go out into the Waddenzee and visit the Friesian Islands, but the unstable weather put us off (there is little shelter amongst the low-lying islands) and I'm glad we didn't as the winds were blowing Storm Force 10 there when we would have gone!

I had a very hectic 9 days at home with my parents in early August, so I'm sorry if I didn't manage to catch up with you then. My tenants of 6 years standing are leaving today and I've had to organise redecoration of the house. Thankfully, new tenants take over at the end of the month.

We do feel now we've seen enough of The Netherlands. Although charming, the towns are very similar and the flat landscape boring after a while

We plan to stay in Dunkirk for a week and then cross the channel beginning of October to anchor at Dungeness, before taking out the mortgage required to stay in Brighton marina for 2 nights! We bought Caprice from there and I worked there for 2 years in the 90's and loved it (London by sea!) so I'm keen for a visit. We'll then make our way back along the English coast and, subject to weather, should be back around mid-October.

Send an email with your news/gossip if you can, otherwise will catch up soon.

Bye for now

Denise & Ian


S/V Caprice
In Noordzeekanal

 




From: Denise Phillips [mailto:capriceatsea@hotmail.co.uk]
Sent: 25 June 2011 18:53
To: website@tmsc.org.uk
Subject: Holland report No1

Hi all

We arrived at Vlissingen in The Netherlands on 2nd June, having gone from Boulogne to Nieuwpoort in Belgium. The short Belgium coastline is unattractive to sail past – flat, with mile after mile of high rise blocks and petro-chem installations, offshore sandbanks and dodging the massive tankers all keep you on your toes when sailing! Nieuwpoort was OK though, once you got out of the massive (2000+ boats) marina & into the town.

 

Vlissingen proved to be the start of what we now know to be the norm here – very crowded. However, when we talk to the Dutch they tell us it is quiet yet and we can expect it to get much worse from mid-July – not what we are used to on our sailing trips, when we are usually the only boat for miles!

We had enjoyed several weeks of dry weather up to then & had a mini heatwave for the first 4 days in Holland, but then it all went pear-shaped and like you, we've had rain & yet more rain (+ strong winds) for the last 3 weeks, and guess what – it's pouring again today (in Dordrecht), although due to improve from tomorrow.

The main feature of this trip which is very different to anything we've experienced before is negotiating the locks and opening bridges. If you get timings wrong, you often have to circulate in confined areas, dodging other waiting boats. Fine for boats that reverse straight, have bow thrusters or are easily manoeuvred – not so great with our boat, that doesn't do any of those & is hampered by windage! Still, we've not hit anyone or anything yet. Now that we are on the “Standing Mast” route north, in narrower waterways, the other hazard is avoiding the massive barges that trade these routes – up to 25,000 tons (see pic).

We did have an “Oh S---t” moment though going through the tiny lock up to Steenbergen, when halfway through on “free-flow” a 30 metre Dutch barge suddenly appeared coming towards us, totally filling the lock (there was no “traffic light” on this lock). We managed to miss him, but I think we learnt a few Dutch expletives from the lady steering it!

Other than when we cruised the inland “lake” area of Grevelingen which only cost 12.50€ in mooring fees for a week, we've had to stay in marinas. However they are much cheaper than the UK (isn't everywhere) - 18€ a night for marinas, but we are trying to stay at local yacht club moorings, which work out at 11€ for us, so managing to stay within our budget.

Steenbergen, although off the beaten track was interesting – it is where the RAF pilot Wing Commander Guy Gibson VC (of Dambusters fame) is buried )see pic), alongside his Mosquito navigator. They crashed there a year after the Dambusters raid and besides the beautifully attended grave, there is a memorial comprising of the bent propeller of the plane.

In Williamstad we stayed on the town quay – a bit public but VERY picturesque (again rafted 4 deep at times). We decided to hire a bicycle (Ian has his own on board) to explore the surrounding area. Now, I am not a bike rider (see pic). I never owned one as a child or adult and am very nervous when on the roads, but of course over here conditions are perfect. Cycle tracks everywhere, priority given to cyclists over motorists and FLAT, so it should have been a doddle. Except me being me, I managed to fall off in the first hour! I forgot to apply the brakes going round a sharp corner and ended up – in a FLOWERBED! Still at least it was only my pride that got broken & no bones – just bruised. I got straight back on and we ended up cycling 15 miles and I think I enjoyed it.

We like Dordrecht very much (see pic) – a large characterful town, with canals running through it and a largely intact historical centre. It was once the most powerful mercantile city in the province of Holland and this is reflected in the wonderful varied architecture – I love the town houses, which often lean at precarious angles!. We're catching the train tomorrow to The Hague & Delft and will probably sail on up towards Gouda on Tuesday.

The Dutch we've met are very friendly and helpful and of course speak English which helps. We've not caught up with fellow club members, Dave & Doreen, who are now nearing Haarlem, but they are turning around there to return, so expect to pass each other en-route.

So that brings us up to date. I fly to Exeter on 8th August for 10 days, to see my parents' (Dad hasn't been too well). We plan to be in the Ijsselmeer by then so that Ian can move around and hopefully anchor, whilst waiting for me to return. Unless anything changes, we expect to stay in the Netherlands until Sept and then come back via the UK coast in October.

Love to all

Denise & Ian

S.V. Caprice Sat 25th

 

 


From: Denise Phillips [mailto:capriceatsea@hotmail.co.uk]
Sent: 29 May 2011 21:08
To: website@tmsc.org.uk
Subject: Our 2011 trip
 

Hi to all, an email on our progress to date since we left Torpoint on 13th May.  
We crossed from Salcombe to Braye harbour in Alderney. where we anchored for 3 nights.  Alderney is our favourite Channel Island, reminding us especially of Bryher in the Scilly Isles, for being unspoilt and uncommercialised (we had been in the Scillies for a week early in May, taking Ian's sister and brother in law with us).
 
A good run then to St Vaast (with an overnight passage stop on a free buoy in a small village called Omonville).  The marina at St V is expensive so only stayed 1 night.  Conditions were then calm enough for us to anchor for a night amongst the remains of the Mulberry harbours at Port Winston off Arromanche.  They are huge, makes you realise what a feat of engineering it was under difficult conditions in 1944 (they were erected for Operation Overlord - the Allied invasion).
 
We spent 8 nights in Caen, where the marina is in the centre of the city, up a 7 mile canal from the port at Ouistreham.  Did plenty of walking around the sites and also had a day on local buses, visiting Bayeaux and Arromanches.  We didn't go to the tapestry as I've been before & Ian wasn't interested, but instead visited WWII sites.  My Dad is a D-Day veteran.  He landed on Gold Beach just down from Arromanche in the early hours of 7th June 1944, so it was very interesting for me to learn more about the Overlord campaign and be where he fought, almost 67 years to the day!  Looking at the newsreels and photos I was wondering if he was in any of them!  On the way up the canal we moored at Pegasus Bridge, which is where the first house to be liberated is situated and where glider planes of the 6th Airborne division landed on 6th June to take the bridge.  Fascinating.
 
We left Caen and sailed overnight to reach Dieppe, where we are now (until 6am tomorrow), when we push on up the French coast, stopping at Boulogne & Dunkirque for a night each before then going past Belgium and on to Vlissengen in The Netherlands, where we enter the canal system.
 
We've hit a few snags - our wind instrument for measuring speed and direction packed up on us the day after we left Torpoint and there have been repair issues at both of Ian's flats, necessitating in costly bills, but c'est le vie!!  It's just good to be on the move again and we especially like the Normandy towns.
 
Our friends Dave & Doreen England are about a week ahead of us, already sailing in Holland, so not sure if we'll meet up with them as we are in no hurry (may meet them on their return journey!).
 
We are always pleased to receive news of what you are up to, as it keeps us in touch, so please email if possible.
 
We are using Ian's UK mobile number, but for texts only (07766 369868).  My (Denise) mobile is disabled whilst away. Our international sim is to receive phone calls on for emergencies, family calls etc.
 
 
Best wishes to all
 
Denise & Ian
S/V Caprice
 
 
PS to Barbara Leadsford - can you pls ask Lisa for her email address so I can add her to my list of contacts.  She was going to let me have it but got overlooked when left.  Many thanks. D